It is pretty common for tomato plants to suffer from transplant shock, and I have, over the years, developed my own ways of helping plants recover.
Tomato plants can suffer transplant shock indoors and outdoors, and I have learned to approach both situations differently.
My method may not be unique as it is rooted in learning by doing extensive reading and study.
But it is a step-by-step method with actionable advice and is easy to follow. And most importantly, it works well for me.
I grow many tomatoes and deal with transplant shock every season, at least for a few plants. Transplant shock happens as I sometimes cannot provide the optimal growing environment due to weather and other circumstances outside of my control.
In most cases, the good news is that transplant shock can be fixed. Read on to learn how.
What is transplant shock?
Simply put, transplant shock happens when your tomato plants experience some degree of stress during the pot-up or transplantation process. Common causes for transplant shock include:
- Root damage due to exposed and severed roots
- Temperature fluctuations
- Changes in lighting conditions
- Changes in water supply and soil moisture
And it is not that hard to understand. No matter how careful you are, you will disturb the root system and realistically cause some root damage that will affect how the plant is used to absorbing water and essential nutrients.
Add fluctuations in soil temperature and lighting to the mix, and it is almost surprising that not all plants always suffer from transplant shock.
Signs and symptoms of transplant shock
Plants suffering from transplant shock show clear and visible signs of distress. Common signs and symptoms of transplant shock in tomato plants include wilting leaves, yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and even loss of foliage.
From my experience, wilting leaves and an overall lackluster appearance are the first signs of transplant shock.
Disturbing or damaging the plant’s root system can affect the plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients resulting in wilting leaves and an overall lackluster appearance. [1]
Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and damage or loss of foliage may follow, but only if I cannot help the plant recover.
Is there a way to prevent transplant shock
From my experience, it is difficult to eliminate the risk of transplant shock. There are just too many factors that are impossible to control.
I have, however, been successful in minimizing the occurrence of transplant shock among my tomato plants.
My playbook includes properly hardening off the plants, transplanting the tomato plants the right way, and providing good aftercare and support.
1. Hardening off and preparing the tomato seedlings
Hardening off tomato seedlings to gradually acclimatize them to outdoor growing conditions goes a long way toward preventing transplant shock in seedlings.
Place the tomato seedlings outside in a sheltered spot for a few hours each day, and gradually increase the exposure to the outdoors over a week or so.
Hardening off the tomato seedlings will help them adjust to changes in temperature, humidity, and light conditions, thereby increasing your chances of avoiding transplant shock.
2. Transplanting tomatoes the right way
Potting up or transplanting tomatoes is a process rather than a one-thing occasion. We gradually increase the size of the pot as the plant develops.
Here are my best tips for successfully transplanting tomato plants:
- Find a shaded area and ensure you are well-prepared for the job. The article “Prepare moving plants outdoors – “Mise en place” for home gardeners” can help you get organized
- Use only well-draining soil rich in organic matter
- Ensure the hole in the receiving pot or location is large enough to house the entire root ball, and always plant the seedling deeper than it was growing. Planting the stem deeper is vital as tomato plants can develop roots along the stem.
- Fill the hole with soil, add support stakes as needed, and firm the soil to ensure good soil-to-root content.
- Now water thoroughly. You want to flood the pot and slowly watch the soil absorb what it can hold. Any excess will run off through the drainage holes.
- Place pots in partial shade and avoid exposure to direct sunlight.
If you are transplanting into the ground, choose a time when there is partial shade and avoid the hotter parts of the day.
3. Tomato plant care following transplant
When my plants are transplanted, I focus on maintaining consistent soil moisture, and for at least a couple of days, I protect the plant from direct sunlight.
Using shade cloth or row coverings can protect your plants from intense sunlight and help retain heat if the weather turns cold.
Ensure the plants are growing far enough from each other to provide sufficient airflow and circulation.
When it is time to fertilize your plants, give nitrogen-heavy fertilizers to promote healthy green growth and move to phosphorus for root development and potassium-heavy fertilizers when your plants form buds, flowers, and fruits.
I always recommend using a diluted water-soluble fertilizer at first. You can always add, but it is hard to remove fertilizers if you overdose.
A step-by-step guide to fixing transplant shock
I read a lot about transplant shock when it first happened to some of my plants.
And I found a lot of great advice. I have summarized some of it in the list below.
- Monitoring water and soil moisture levels
- Providing sufficient light
- Maintain a balanced temperature
- Provide good airflow
- Add a low dosage of fertilizer to help boost root development
This is all great advice, but it was often too general for me to know what to do. What exactly should I do differently?
There are no guarantees, but I have successfully followed the simple step-by-step method below.
Tomato transplant shock indoors
Here, we are typically transplanting smaller plants or seedlings waiting to be moved outdoors.
When: Use when tomato seedlings suffer transplant shock indoors
- Water pot thoroughly
- Let excess water run off
- Place seedling under full spectrum grow light (10 cm / 4 inches distance between light and seedlings)
- Maintain a 10 cm / 4 inches distance between seedlings if more than one
- Check back after 1-4 hours
It may seem simplistic, but it works. No need for fertilizers. Just water, a grow light, proper spacing, and time.
Tomato transplant shock outdoors
Sometimes more developed tomato plants show signs of stress and transplant shock despite being hardened off.
Here it is harder to know if the transplant shock is due to wind, sun, over-watering, cold weather, hot weather, too much fertilizer, pests, or a host of other reasons.
Still, I follow the checklist below, and if I am unsure as to why, I use the general advice section:
When: Use when tomato plants suffer transplant shock outdoors
Plants exposed to strong winds
Ask yourself: Has it been windy lately? Maybe at night? Check for fallen leaves and branches.
Symptoms: White, scorched, or even brown leaves
Fix: Remove damaged leaves, water thoroughly, ensure you have proper support in place, and use row covers to protect against the wind.
Related: Tomato leaves turning white (explanation and fixes)
Plants over-exposed to direct sunlight
Ask yourself: Are the plants exposed to direct sunlight during the hottest times of the day?
Symptoms: Scorched, brown, and even crumbling leaves
Fix: Water thoroughly at the base of the plant, remove damaged leaves, and use shade cloth to protect plants
Transplant shock due to over-watering
Ask yourself: Have you been watering a lot lately? A lot of rain?
Symptoms: Yellowing leaves, lackluster appearance
Fix: Stop watering for a day or two, remove lower branches to create better airflow, expose soil if mulched, and work soil amendment like perlite into the soil to improve drainage.
Related: Bottom-watering vs. top-watering – why, when & how
Transplant shock due to cold weather
Ask yourself: Has the weather been unusually cold?
Symptoms: White, crumbling, scorched-looking, and even brown leaves
Fix: Use row covers to retain heat, and mulch the bed if not already done
Transplant shock due to hot weather
Ask yourself: Did I recently add fertilizer or nutrients to the soil?
Symptoms: Scorched, brown, and even crumbling leaves, lackluster plants
Fix: Protect plants using shade cloths, ensure good air circulation and airflow, and water thoroughly if the soil is dry.
Transplant shock due to over-fertilizing
Ask yourself: Did I recently add fertilizer or nutrients to the soil?
Symptoms: Soil covered with crust or film, plants looking lackluster, and brown or yellow leaves
Fix: This is a tricky one, and all I know is to flush the soil with water while ensuring you do not overwater the plant, causing new problems. This works if your soil is well-draining. Prepare for up to a week of flush watering to save your plants. If your soil suffers from poor drainage, you may have to relocate your plants and improve the soil before using the bed again.
Transplant shock due to pests
Ask yourself: Do I see pests or signs of pests when manually inspecting the plants?
Symptoms: Curled leaves, holes in leaves, leaves with jagged edges, plants overrun with ants, and generally lackluster and wilting top formations.
Fix: Catching pests infestations early is key to a quick recovery. Inspect your plants daily and refer to the guides listed below for advice on how to treat your plants.
Related: Coming to grips with aphids on seedlings and plants (tips)
General advice:
Ask yourself: Does all feel normal in the garden for the time of year, and nothing comes to mind?
Symptoms: Plants suffering from transplant shock and showing some or all of the above symptoms.
Fix: Start by ensuring you water your plants enough, but not too much. Use a soil moisture meter or insert your finger to feel if the soil is moist. You want to maintain an even soil moisture level.
Next, remove damaged leaves to help improve airflow and circulation and shield your plants from direct sunlight using shade cloths.
Step back and observe for a day or two.
If there is no visible improvement, add a low dosage of liquid fertilizer.
Frequently Asked Questions
What to do if I suspect root damage?
If you suspect root damage, carefully dig out your tomato plant and use sharp, clean garden scissors to trim any visibly damaged roots.
How long does it take to fix transplant shock?
From my experience, seedlings can recover in hours, whereas more mature plants may need days to weeks to recover fully.
Be patient, stay the course, and ensure consistent care, including proper watering and protection from extreme weather conditions.
Helpful resources:
[1] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0304423820301837as